Pests on cucumbers: a description and how to get rid of them

Greetings to my dear readers! When you plunge headlong into country life, it becomes clear that watering and weeding are not the only "entertainments" of the gardener. There can be aphids on currants, weevils need to be removed from strawberries, and if ants settled on the beds ...

However, this year the pests on the cucumbers, which I put a lot of effort into, and, in the end, won, won’t give me the most rest. I will hope that next year these parasites will not return. I share with you information about cucumber pests in my material! All the details are below!

Pests on cucumbers: appearance and ways to get rid of them

Often the cause of a decrease in the yield of cucumbers is pests: gourds, whiteflies, cruciferous fleas, spider mites.

Each gardener should know about methods of dealing with them, be able to identify insects on time and take the necessary control measures. Pest control of cucumbers includes traditional and folk remedies.

Aphid

The insect hibernates in the basal leaves of weeds. In the spring begins to multiply actively, settling on the site. Especially to the pest's taste gourds.

The peak of pest activity is mid-summer. On cucumber leaves you can see hordes of insects of black or green color. Due to the invasion of aphids, flowers and ovaries are affected, the leaves curl and dry. The dehydrated plant gradually dies. If these insects are found, it is necessary to immediately begin a fight with them.

Spider mite

A spider mite is a small pest that is very difficult to notice. Its dimensions can range from 0.3 to 1 mm. The presence of an arthropod is betrayed by a white web that has entangled leaves.

A tick is a record holder for its ability to infect plants. He sucks the juice, weakening the plant. The color of the tick is diverse: yellow-green, white, orange, red. The pest lives on the bottom of the leaves, can occupy the entire bush. If you do not treat the lesions in time, the death of the plant is inevitable.

Black flea

Black flea is a tiny bug of dark color (1.8–3 mm). Insects winter in the upper layer of the earth. Pests move quickly, jumping from one sheet to another.

Black flea is the most dangerous species of cruciferous flea. If these insects are not noticed in time, leaf beetles can destroy the seedlings of cucumbers in a few days.

Whitefly

Flour-colored insects up to 1.5 cm, with two pairs of wings covered with a wax coating.Small hairy larvae (not more than 0.3 mm), feeding on leaf juice, have an abdomen with thin threads at the end, they are painted in a pale green color.

If you lift the leaf, then from its back you can see white insects flying up when you touch the plant. Pests look like translucent flakes that cling to the bottom of a cucumber leaf.

After the defeat of whiteflies, many bright spots appear on the cucumber leaves. Affected plants turn yellow first, then lose leaves, cease to bear fruit. Whitefly is a carrier of viral infections that can destroy all plantings of cucumbers.

How to deal with pests of cucumbers: aphids

To effectively control pests, it is important to consider where insects live. When processing cucumbers, one should not forget that insects mainly settle on the underside of leaves. If young seedlings are easy to process, then cucumber lashes of adult plants must be carefully turned over without changing their position.

To combat aphids, a ladybug is used, catching it in habitats - on dill bushes, mustard, meadow grass. An insect larva can destroy 50 pests per day, and an adult bug eats up to 100 insects.

They are carried out once a week until the complete disappearance of pests. Actofit, Bitoxibacillin, Fitoverm biological preparations are also used.

A big plus of these remedies is the possibility to eat fruits already in 2 days after spraying. If a large aphid is observed in large areas, the use of chemicals is inevitable.

There are many insecticides that effectively kill pests:

• Arrivo
• Decis;
• Karbofos;
• Kinmix;
• Metaphos;
• Inta-vir.

Carefully read the instructions for the use of chemicals. Many of them are toxic and should be used before the appearance of the ovary of cucumbers.

How to deal with a spider mite

When a spider mite appears, damaged leaves, and sometimes whole plants, are removed. They are collected in a closed container so that they do not spread on the site, and burned. When getting rid of pests, part of the crop is lost, but this is necessary so that the arthropod does not spread throughout the site.

Infection with a spider mite can be determined by yellowish points - insect eggs, and cobwebs on the surface of leaves

An effective tool for combating the spider mite on cucumbers is predator insects. These include the mites Amblyseus and Phytoseyulus, which suck out the eggs laid by the females.

For a good result, settlement is carried out in several stages every 2-3 weeks, while maintaining air humidity of at least 70% and a temperature above + 25 ° C. The number of released individuals depends on the number of pests (20-50 pcs. Per m2).

Biomaterial is recommended for use over large areas. It is now difficult to buy it due to the termination of many laboratories of large greenhouse farms, but you can purchase the product from dealers of Dutch, Belgian, and Israeli companies.

Information on the stores and greenhouse farms that distribute these funds is provided by the plant quarantine department of the city phytosanitary surveillance service.

To combat the tick, you can apply the following recipes:

1. Garlic infusion. 150 g of garlic pour 1 liter of warm water and insist for a week. Before use, dilute 10 l of water.
2. Aloe Vera Solution 2 kg of the crushed plant is diluted with 10 l of water.
3. Infusion of wormwood. 2 kg of wormwood in raw form is poured into 10 liters of warm water. You can use after 12 hours.
4. Infusion of dandelion. 250 g of dried dandelion roots to insist 3 hours in 10 liters of warm water.
5. Hot pepper broth. 100 g of pepper are boiled for 30 minutes in 1 liter of water. Dilute 150 ml of broth in 10 l of water.
6. Infusion of horse sorrel. 300 g of sorrel is infused in 10 liters of warm water for 3-4 hours.
7. Infusion of tops of tomatoes. 1.5 kg of raw tops and 1 kg of dry tomato tops are soaked in 10 liters of hot water, infused for 5 hours.
8. The infusion is celandine. 100 g of dry crushed plants pour 1 liter of boiling water, insist 3 hours, dilute 10 liters of water.

How to get rid of a black flea on cucumbers

When the leaves are still in dew, they are pollinated with a mixture of tobacco dust and ash. To do this, mix the components in a 1: 1 ratio, fill the bag with a mixture of fabric, which easily passes dust (for example, kapron) and tie it into a knot.

The contents of the bag are sprayed above each plant from below and above, trying to evenly distribute the mixture over the leaves. It adheres well to wet plants. Instead of tobacco, you can use road dust, because the pest does not like dirty leaves.

Handy means of dealing with a black flea

Against the cruciferous flea, home remedies can be used that repel the insect or create a film on the leaves through which the pest can not reach the leaves

Biological insecticides for flea control - Guapsin, Fitoverm, etc. There are also many effective chemicals for pest control: Aktara, DDT, Decis, Arrivo, Sherpa. Anabadust or Nicodust, sodium silicofluoride mixed with wood ash are also used.

Whitefly Remedies

One female whitefly lays more than a hundred eggs, from which larvae hatch quickly, which can cause great damage to the plant

If infection with insects is detected at an early stage, you can try to collect pests mechanically, in which the affected leaves are torn down and burned, and the soil around the plants is loosened.

In greenhouses, where there are many plants, parasites and predators are also used. The parasitoid wasp enkarsia is released into the plant in several stages every 2 weeks (15 pcs. Per m2).

One enkarsia can destroy about 100 whitefly larvae. You can purchase biomaterial in specialized stores. The price of packaging, in which 500 individuals, is about 250 rubles.

They destroy whiteflies using chemical insecticides. Usually they use Actellic in combination with Actara, Kinmix and others.

Folk remedies for insect control

In small areas, summer residents try to fight pests of cucumbers with folk remedies. The infusions of many plants are used: wormwood, marigold, celandine, horse sorrel, dandelions, tobacco, onions, garlic, hot pepper, etc. Decoctions and infusions can be used once a week, repeated spraying 3-4 times during the season.

The following recipes can be used to combat aphids and whiteflies:

• Onion infusion. 200 g of onions are chopped and poured with 10 liters of warm water. After a day, the infusion is filtered.
• Garlic infusion. 100 g chopped garlic pour 10 liters of water. Insist 12 hours.
• Orange infusion. 1 kg of dried orange peels is poured into 10 liters of water, put for three days in a dark warm place.
• Pepper infusion. 30 g of crushed pods of hot pepper, 200 g of tobacco dust per 10 l of hot water, insist for 10 hours and strain, add an alkaline solution to the product (2 tbsp. Liquid soap and 2 tbsp. Wood ash).

Recipes for flea infusions:

1. Infusion of tomato tops and garlic. Take one glass of chopped garlic and tomato tops, dilute in 10 liters of warm water. Use immediately.
2. 0.5 kg of leaves and roots of dandelion (1: 1) are crushed, pour 10 l of hot water. Use a filtered solution.
3. 4 kg of potato tops are poured with 10 liters of water and boiled for 15 minutes. The cooled and filtered broth is half diluted with water (1: 1).
4. Recently, the use of 70% vinegar solution (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), liquid ammonia or hydrogen peroxide (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) has received positive reviews. In spring, young plantings from below and from above are treated with these agents.

25-30 g of household, liquid or tar soap is added to decoctions and infusions for spraying plants, so that the sprayed substance lasts longer on the leaves.

Preventive measures

Preventive measures against pests of cucumbers begin at the end of the season. It is better to prevent the appearance of harmful insects than to spend a lot of time and effort on fighting them.

In autumn it is recommended to perform the following work on the open ground:

• destroy and burn the remains of plants;
• spray the soil with 7% vitriol;
• dig the soil (plow) to a depth of at least 30 cm.

After harvesting and removing plants from greenhouses or from beds, you need to prepare the soil for the next season. Sulfur checkers Vist, Hephaestus, Climate, Fas (1 checker per 15 m3 of the room) destroy mold spores and fungi in greenhouses. The soil is treated with Farmayod-3 (200 ml per 10 l of water).

In the spring, 10 days before sowing, the prepared soil is decontaminated. If manure is introduced during spring cultivation, it must be well embedded in the ground so as not to provoke active breeding of flies. With a strong spread of weeds, pesticides are used.

If necessary, weeds are removed, the soil is loosened, the soil is not allowed to dry, watering is carried out regularly.

Compliance with the regime of growing cucumbers includes thinning densely planted plants. In greenhouses and hotbeds, it is worthwhile to provide for air heating when the temperature drops at night below + 18 ° C, regularly ventilate the premises, avoiding drafts. Under cover it is necessary to maintain high air humidity (75%).

When planning plantings, you should adhere to crop rotation rules. In no case can a cucumber be planted in the place where the pumpkins grew. The best predecessor of a cucumber is the legume family (except for beans) or potatoes.

In the vicinity of cucumber beds, it is nice to sow plants with insecticidal properties that attract bees - these are spicy crops (basil, celery, fennel), chamomile, calendula, marigolds, cosmei, etc. In the greenhouse, dill will be a good friend of the cucumber.

Pest control of cucumbers should be carried out constantly. Obtaining an abundant crop that is not spoiled by pests depends on knowledge of pests, timely prevention of infection and proper care of plants.

Pests of cucumbers - description and control measures

Every summer resident knows - in order to get a good harvest, you must follow the rules of agricultural technology. One of the stages of this science is the protection of crops from pests that prefer to enjoy the fruits from the garden.But the fight against insects and the adoption of preventive measures will have no effect if you do not know the "enemy in the face."

Features of pests of open ground and greenhouses

Insects are part of any biosystem. Some destroy the crop, others eat their own kind, thereby protecting the beds. Regardless of whether the garden is open-air or in a greenhouse, the “set” of pests for each particular crop is almost the same.

1. In closed buildings, the number of insects can somehow be limited by changing artificially regimes and conducting sanitary preventive measures between seasons.
2. In open beds, you can save the crop only with attention and zeal.

To choose the right pest control measures, you need to take into account their biological characteristics. During the growing season, some insects are able to give several generations. And each subsequent family becomes more adapted to the drugs used. Therefore, dwell on any one tool is not recommended.

Pests have their own individual characteristics. You can find out about insects annoying cucumbers from the table below.

Pests of cucumbers - description and effect on the plant: spider mite

This pest is omnipresent, but gives more preference to enclosed spaces. The appearance of the tick is indicated by a cobweb, which is interwoven with an insect on growth shoots. A reddish-green small pest hides on the underside of a leaf plate.

During the season, the female is able to lay more than one and a half hundred eggs, giving birth to several generations. 2 weeks after laying, the larvae are able to completely dehydrate the plant by sucking its juices. The insect does not have a protective layer on the body, which facilitates the fight against it with chemical preparations.

Melon aphid: who is she?

The name of the insect is conditional - the pest is omnivorous. Glutton barely reaches 2 mm and has a green oblong-rounded body. A colony of aphids can be found on the underside of the leaf, where they hide from the weather and their enemies.

Aphid is a poisonous insect, so the plant can die quickly. In addition, the pest is a carrier of dangerous diseases.

Whitefly: how to detect

This small insect with a yellow body and mealy wings looks like a butterfly. The imago does not cause much harm to plants - microscopic larvae that stick on the underside of the leaf are dangerous.

It is not possible to immediately detect a small pest. His presence can be guessed from the fading foliage and numerous holes on the plate.

Whitefly is also dangerous because it attracts spores of sooty fungus to the plant.

Sprout fly

This pest prefers seeds and young shoots. The average size of the fly is 3 mm; the newborn insect barely reaches 1 mm. It is this “trifle” that is a dangerous enemy for garden crops.

The life cycle of an insect takes place in the soil. Therefore, larvae, having stings instead of heads, eat everything that is there (including seedlings of cucumbers).

Gall nematode

A favorite place for a harmful worm is closed ground. It is difficult to detect an insect - the nematode settles in the roots of plants, forming galls on them. There are no signs of damage to the aerial part, but the plants lag behind in development and outwardly look oppressed.

To verify the presence of the pest, it is recommended to dig one bush and carefully examine its roots. Having discovered the growths, you will have to remove the remaining plants, and disinfect the ground.

Tobacco thrips

Another small pest with wings barely reaches a millimeter in size. Outwardly striped insects look like tadpoles, but they have legs, and thanks to them, thrips move quickly.

Both larvae and adults do harm, not missing a single patch on the plant. The immune system of insects is resistant to any external influences, so it is difficult to deal with them.

Medvedka

This “robber” summer residents especially disliked. Adult individuals are large enough - at least 5 cm in length. They have short wings and powerful serrated paws, which actively dig numerous passages in the ground.

For one clutch, the female is able to lay about 400 eggs. After 3 weeks, the entire garden will be filled with an army of omnivorous larvae. They are dangerous both for seeds and seedlings, and for a fruiting plant.

Slug

At first glance, harmless mollusks are the real scourges of garden crops. In fact, it is a “harvester” for eating greens. Slugs destroy plantations as soon as possible, quickly wielding their mouth grater, consisting of 40 thousand teeth.

If you simply poison the pests with poisonous drugs, after 2 years, the insects will stop responding to these funds. Therefore, the struggle should be complex - in parallel, parasites are scared away by folk remedies, use traps, and attract beneficial insects.

Each insect has its own “taste preferences”. In this regard, cucumbers were the least fortunate - there is a large list of pests overcoming this culture. The table below gives recommendations on how, given the biological characteristics of insects, to conduct an effective fight against them.

Preventative measures

The control of harmful insects in the beds will be more effective if measures are taken to prevent their invasion. Standard preventive actions include such moments:

• the plot reserved for the garden is recommended to be dug from the autumn to the full depth of the shovel with a flip of a lump of earth;
• if there are insect clutches in the ground, they will be unprotected and quickly freeze out;
• immediately before planting crops, it is recommended to pour boiling water on the beds;
• cucumbers are best grown by seedlings; before planting seedlings in a permanent place, it is recommended that they be treated with Parathion;
• during the care of cucumbers, weed control is mandatory; these plants attract most pests to the garden;
• loosening the soil allows you to destroy the existing insect masonry in the ground;
• along the perimeter of the beds you can plant a "live cordon" that repels pests - marigolds, marigolds, a Persian chamomile, chicory, nasturtium. Essential oils possessed by spicy cultures (basil, dill, parsley, coriander, parsnip, celery) have an insecticidal effect;
• these same plants, as well as the tops of potatoes, tomatoes, peppers are used as mulch, solving 3 problems at once - they fertilize the earth, prevent moisture from evaporating and scare insects;
• good protection of the beds will be their cover with agrofibre - the greenhouse effect created under the film is harmful for many insects;
• if a bear is wound up in the garden, it is lured by dung pits, where insects from all over the area will gather for wintering;
• closer to cold weather, fertilizer is scattered in a thin layer on the cleaned beds; which will lead to the freezing of pests.

Pests will appear even in a well-kept garden. Therefore, it is important to detect them in time and take the necessary control measures.You should start with the use of folk remedies and only then, if there is no result, take on chemicals. This approach will allow us to grow environmentally friendly products.

Pests of cucumbers in a greenhouse and open ground: description, photo, control measures

Unfortunately, cucumbers both in open and in protected ground affect many pests that can completely destroy the crop. To avoid this, it is important to regularly inspect plants, learn to identify harmful insects and fight them correctly.

Consider the main pests of cucumbers, which are found in almost every area, while the rest of the multivorous eaters of garden crops may not be active every year or in all areas.

You can detect the presence of a pest on plants by changing the color of leaf veins, folding, chlorosis and necrosis of leaves, drying and decay of flowers, curving stems.

In addition, aphids are carriers of various viruses, and secreting a sweet pad (honey dew) can attract other insect pests to the beds and cause the plant to become infected with a sooty fungus.

Vast colonies of aphids can destroy up to a third of all young growths in the crown of an adult plant, and young seedlings can destroy completely or severely disfigure their shoots.

Moreover, any aphid is very prolific, and it takes only a few days to settle in all the beds. If you leave the pest on the plantings, you can forget about the good harvest of cucumbers, so it is so important to start the fight against aphids as early as possible.

Measures to control aphids on cucumbers include treatment of plantings with folk remedies (infusions of onion peel, celandine, dandelion, garlic or wood ash with soap as an adhesive) or tested insecticides (Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Tanrek, Komandor, Fufanon Nova and other).

Whitefly on Cucumbers: Precautions

These small insects are a “relative” of aphids and behave almost the same on plants, being a serious pest of garden crops both in the greenhouse and in the open ground.

Whitefly settles in colonies on the underside of leaves and multiplies very actively, laying off larvae. It feeds, like the aphids, on plant sap, therefore the symptoms of plant damage by these insects are similar - the appearance of whitish spots on the leaves, their folding, chlorosis, necrosis and decay, weakening of plants as a whole.

Like aphids, whiteflies also secrete a sweet liquid and contribute to the appearance of sooty fungus, powdery mildew and gray rot on tomato plants, and also is a carrier of some viral diseases.

Measures to control whitefly on cucumbers include treatment of plantings with folk remedies at the initial stages of infection and the use of chemicals in more advanced cases.

From folk remedies against whiteflies, it is possible to recommend spraying plants with a soap solution (1 part of laundry soap in 6 parts of water) and hanging glue traps in the greenhouse.

Effective industrial preparations against this insect are Vertimek, Actellik, Biovert, Golden Spark, etc. It is important that the whitefly is able to quickly develop immunity to chemicals, so they have to be changed from time to time.

Spider mite on cucumbers: control measures

A spider mite is a small arachnid whose presence on plants is produced by the finest white spider web (usually at the initial stage of infection on the lower side of the leaves, after which it passes to the stems and fruits).

Alas, the actions of the tick are not limited to weaving the web - the pest both at the larval stage and at the adult stage sucks the juice from plants, due to which the leaves are first covered with bright spots, and then completely yellow, dry and fall off.

The spider mite prefers dry air at high temperatures, so it often harms cucumber plants when watering is insufficient in the dry summers or during rare airings in the greenhouse. This arachnid reproduces very quickly, so when the gardener is inactive, he can quickly infect all the plants nearby.

Measures to combat the spider mite on cucumbers come down to spraying the plants with the insecticides Akarin, Fufanon-Nova, Karbofos according to the instructions.

If you are a supporter of the "garden without chemistry", try folk or biological ways to combat the spider mite. So, you can treat cucumbers with Fitoverm, Bikol or Bitoksibacillin preparations (according to the instructions), as well as populate the plantings with a predatory tick, phytoseyulus.

Folk rumor advises from a tick to spray plants with warm water with soap (40 g per 10 l) or infusion of garlic or onion husk (200 g of husk per 1 liter of water).

Cucumber thrips: prevention

Another miniature, but exclusively "harmful" and very common pest of cucumbers is thrips. They lead a hidden mode of existence, hide in leaves and flowers (usually from the back), suck the juice from the leaf plate of the plant, and still carry viruses.

An adult insect has wings, so it easily settles in the garden and can cause a lot of harm to any plantings.

How to understand that this pest has wound up on cucumbers? On thrips-struck leaves and flowers, small, barely noticeable white and gray lines appear, which then enlarge and merge into dry silver spots, which later darken.

Prevention of the appearance of thrips on cucumbers includes timely watering, spraying and airing of plantings (the pest prefers dry and warm air), harvesting plant debris and damaged parts of the plant, weeding and destroying weeds, autumn digging up the soil.

Measures to control thrips on cucumbers include mainly treatment with chemical insecticides (Fitoverm, Actellik, Akarin, Golden Spark, Confidor, Inta-Vir), since common folk remedies like a soap or garlic solution practically do not affect this pest.

Yes, and in the case of chemicals, things are not so rosy - thrips quickly adapt to insecticides, so you have to alternate drugs with different active substances. If there are too many insects, then infected plants are even better to uproot.

A good result is the use of glue traps and the infiltration of the site of the tick-predator amblyseus.

Who else can damage your cucumber plantings? A meadow moth and various scoops, gnawing leaves, a soil cucumber mosquito, making long passages in the roots and stems lying on the ground, miner flies digging oblong passages in leaf blades, various polyphagous garden pests like bear cubs or cicadas - for each of these insects there are their control and prevention measures.

Also, material on the most common diseases of cucumbers and ways to cope with them may be useful to you.

Cucumber diseases: signs of infection, control and prevention measures

Cucumbers are considered an unpretentious garden crop, they are actively planted in open ground, in greenhouses, in greenhouses, hanging on trellises. But whatever the growing conditions, pests of cucumbers and various diseases can seriously reduce the quality of the crop.

Due to diseases and pests, cucumbers often die before the first harvest. But if in the first case typical symptoms can be detected, then some pests conduct hidden activities, and it is not easy to deal with them.

Cucumber Disease

Both greenhouse and ground cucumbers suffer from about the same diseases. They are mainly attacked by fungi. The frequency of outbreaks of infection largely depends on weather conditions.

Fungal damage on cucumbers is noticeable almost immediately, so there is a chance to prevent its development with regular careful examination of the lashes. The following diseases are most common.

1. Powdery Mildew If the leaves of the cucumbers began to “turn gray” (covered with a white coating), this means that powdery mildew has settled on them. Soon it will cover the whips completely, leading to the death of the plant.
2. Peronosporosis, also called downy mildew. Brown single or merging spots appear on the leaves of cucumbers. These are dried tissues devoid of juice.
3. Cladosporiosis. Light green scattered spots are visible on the leaf plates, which soon turn brown. Unlike powdery mildew, cladosporiosis does not spare the fruit either: small weeping ulcerations appear on the cucumbers, leading to rot.
4. Gray and white rot. The defeat scheme for cucumbers is the same: the stems and fruits soften, first become mucus, then they are covered with a fluffy coating of the corresponding type of rot color.
5. Root rot. The stalk of a cucumber is thinned and decays at the very base. The roots look mossy, acquire a dark brown color.
6. Field mosaic (virus). The leaves of the cucumbers are covered with a pattern of yellow-green randomly alternating “cubes”.
7. Mottled mosaic (white and green varieties) is also a virus. Small spots appear on the entire surface of the cucumber leaf plate, which quickly merge. The lash becomes gray, and soft hollows form on the fruit.

In the last two cases, treatment is useless. It remains to remove the surviving cucumbers and destroy the sick lashes. You can return the vegetable crop to this place only after 4 years.

Cucumber treatment

If the scale of damage to the aerial parts is small, then you can process the cucumbers with the following means:

• broth of horsetail; manganese solution (1.5 g per bucket);
• kefir or whey diluted with water (1:10);
• baking soda (dilute a tablespoon in 4 l of water, add half a teaspoon of liquid soap);
• a solution of soda ash.

Biofungicides (Planriz, Fitosporin-M) with an active stage of fungal development are already useless. It is often possible to save cucumbers by treating with a solution of colloidal sulfur or copper chloride.

Proportions for the dilution of both funds: 40 g per 10 liters of water.If the fungus has grown on cucumbers, then only chemicals can effectively and quickly help: Topaz (ampoule per 10 liters of water), Fundazol, Quadrice.

Cucumber rot treatment

It is worth knowing and applying methods of dealing with the defeat of cucumbers by white and gray rot. Conduct urgent dressing by spraying on a sheet. Preparation: dissolve in 10 l of water 1 teaspoon of urea and several grains (at the tip of a knife) of copper sulfate or “HOMA”.

Trim and destroy all affected leaves and spoiled cucumbers. Moisten a piece of rags in a raspberry solution of manganese and wipe the slimy and already coated parts of the cucumber shoots.

Spill the roots of the cucumber with a solution: 2 teaspoons of copper sulfate, 6 tablespoons of lime or ash diluted in 1 liter of water. After treatment, let the roots dry. Remove the whip of the cucumber from the trellis (if tied), bend part of the healthy stem with an arc to the moist soil for rooting, and hang the upper part again.

If the cucumbers fade for no reason, and the root system is in order when removing the topsoil, then infection with verticillosis is likely. The plant can no longer be saved, since this fungus is resistant to the bulk of chemicals.

Cucumber Disease Prevention

Viruses are spread by sucking insects, with care items or soil, and several factors lead to the development of fungus on cucumbers:

1. high humidity and coolness;
2. planting density;
3. excess nitrogen in the soil.

Potash and phosphorus fertilizers increase the resistance of cucumbers to diseases. When cucumbers are already bearing fruit, then the choice of spraying products is limited.

Antifungal chemicals are absorbed not only in the scourge, but also in the fruit, which is then dangerous to eat for 20 days. Therefore, it is easier to take preventive measures to protect against diseases:

• before planting cucumbers, treat the soil with copper chloride;
• pre-saturate the soil with beneficial microorganisms using Fitosporin-M, Trichodermin, Nemabact;
• mulch the soil under the cucumbers to prevent the activated fungus from climbing the plant;
• in the greenhouse, mulch will reduce evaporation, lowering humidity;
• in the phase of the first 2-3 leaves, spray the cucumbers with "Topaz", at the beginning of flowering, repeat the treatment.

And if the defeat on the cucumbers has already been noticed, then it is advisable to apply serial treatments with safe methods without the use of chemistry.

It is impossible to create ideal conditions for growing cucumbers on a standard summer cottage: either the weather will fail, creating favorable conditions for diseases, or it will introduce pests because of the fence.

Knowing the signs of infection and insect parasites "in the face", you can protect the crop of cucumbers by competent use of a complex of preventive and therapeutic measures.